1. Don't throw out plastic 15 liter "kitty litter" buckets?

2. If you're environmentally inclined, you could recycle if you could find a place to take them.

3. Possibly, if you're the outdoorsy type, you could turn it into a camper's crapper.

4. Or, if you're concerned about premature skin aging try using it as a total head shade.

5. But if you really want to have some fun and create an exciting science project, turn that piece of plastic into a rat training wonderland. If you'd like to build one of your own, begin by labeling the sides of the bucket "a", "b", "c", "d" with a permanent marker. Write a small letter "a" on one side, then rotate the bucket CLOCKWISE as you write each letter. These will be your reference points during construction.

6. Here's the NEW version of the operant conditioning rat training box that was first created almost 20 years ago. It's lightweight, affordable, and easy to make in about 2 hours or less, and convenient to clean and store.

7. ...unlike the original version that many of you built from heavy 3/4" particle board.

8. Here's a look at the two versions side-by-side.

9. ...and from above. Which one would you and your students rather contend with?

10. The original plans were challenging and required woodshop skills.

11. The new version requires only these basic tools.

12. ... and buying or making these simple parts.

13. The first trick is the feeding dish. Using a 1/2" schedule 40 PVC 90 degree elbow, cut about 1/4" off of each end. Cut an additional 1/4" off one of the ends. Then cut out the middle area marked with the hashed lines (discard this piece) to produce a thimble sized rat feeding dish. (standing upright top row, center)

14. Sand all rough edges for safety. (power sander is not necessary. sand paper will do, but will take a little longer)

15. You should use one of the three 1/4" "ring" pieces for this apparatus, and cut a piece of 1/2" schedule 200 (thin-walled) PVC to a length of about 1/2".

16. check for smooth edges by inserting the 1/2" cut of the schedule 200 PVC into the back end of the thimble-shaped rat feeding dish. Should be a tight fit, so no need for glue.

17. This first side of the box is labelled "a." Drill a hole just large enough for the 1/2 inch slice of Schedule 200 PVC to fit through. ( 1/2" Schedule 200 PVC has an outside diameter of 7/8 inch so use a 7/8" bit. Shown here is a low-cost flat wood bit. A better but more costly alternative is a Forstner bit.) This hole should be 3-1/2" from the right edge and 1-1/4" from the bottom of the bucket (holes measured "on center")

18. Insert the partially assembled "feeding dish" from the inside...

19. Then place, and secure with super glue or other all-purpose adhesive, one of the 1/4" slices of the elbow on the outside of the box.

20. Here are the components for the marble ramp: An 9 - 3/16ths inch long piece of 1/2" diameter schedule 200 PVC pipe cut in half lengthwise (cut using the hack saw. Or with appropriate adult supervision use a band saw) and two of the leftover pieces from the 90 degree elbow from the previous step.

21. Your goal is to create inclined ramp inside the box, with the plastic fittings at the ends on the outside of sides "a" and "c."

22. Drill 7/8" diameter holes on opposing sides "a" and "c" to create supports for the inclined ramp going up and away from the feeding dish side. The hole on the feeding dish side "a" should be 1-1/4" above the base of the bucket and 1-5/8" from right edge of the bucket(all measurements on center). The hole on the opposing side "c" should be slightly higher, about 1-5/8" from the base of the bucket and still 1-5/8" from the LEFT edge of side "c".

23. Using an adhesive like "superglue" place each of the scrap 1/4" slices (cut from the 90 degree elbow "feeding dish" part in frame 13) on the ends of the ramp on the outside of the box. Also place some additional glue on the end pieces to secure them to the box sides.

Continue to steps #24-#47